KatesReview

This is the second item I have purchased from Bacario, an online watch dealer, and I am again very pleased. Other bloggers have raved about their prompt service, quick e-mail responses, and fast shipping. I ordered this on Sunday the 5th, it was shipped on the 6th, and it arrived today (the 8th).

(Link here to dealer’s site)

I was looking for a white ceramic 33mm J12 (model H1628) for the wife, and am aware they are readily available from several online dealers. Purchasing online has its pros and cons vs. purchasing direct from an authorized dealer. Online purchasing is obviously very convenient, and offers a plethora of opportunities for comparison shopping to find the best value. Many good finds may be had on Ebay as well, but you must do your due diligence to avoid fraud. Another downside of buying online is often having to waive the manufacturer’s original warranty (this is the case with Breitling). Most reputable online dealers augment this with their own “in house” warranty that is comparable, and maybe even superior to the AD warranty. But, online buyer beware as the quality of one dealer’s warranty service may be significantly less or more that those offered by others.

Buying in a retail outlet usually assures the original manufacturer’s warranty, paper’s, and boxset are included with purchase. Retail buying also offers a brick-n-morter facility to return your watch if you experience a problem. Deals can be found, and haggling down the listed price is usually managed (especially in today’s economy). One limiting factor of offline retail purchasing is product inventory. Many AD have limited inventory so finding a specific watch (like a limited edition) is hit-or-miss.

It is well known that the J12 is available in many different flavors of gem configurations; diamond bezel, blue sapphire bezel, ruby markers, etc. The options are endless. What I was hoping to find was white ceramic with simple diamond markers and a standard bezel. I consider this 33mm quartz design to be being subtle, feminine, and classy. The crisp white ceramic is very durable, comfortable, and basically scratch proof. Ceramic does however have one major drawback, it is brittle. If this watch was to be dropped hard on a concrete slab, it would likely chip or shatter Fortunately the folding clasp is very well designed and unlikely to release unexpectedly.

I can hear you asking, “Quartz? Why quartz when an automatic on only about 10% more”? Its simple really. The quartz will hopefully never need servicing like an automatic movement does (aside from a battery change). This watch will likely sit in a watch box during the winter (off season for white) and intermittantly, so why subject an automatic movement to that? The quartz just made sense to me. It’s simple and rugged.

As luck would have it, a dealer had this very model available and it was competitvly discounted. Without hesitation, I made the purchase based on the product’s and dealer’s great reputations.

The wife was so happy with the new wrist wear, that she made me a special snack!

Thanks for viewing, and comments are appreciated…[/SIZE][/COLOR]

For me, the Omega Seamaster and Planet Ocean models are some of the most aesthetically pleasing watches available. Of my current watch collection (12 as of this writing) I’d say the Omega Seamaster Automatic 2531.80 gets the most wrist time. This watch has become my “daily beater” and is capable of being worn with a business suit as well as my bathing suit. Although my Rolex Submariner (LV) is capable of the same tasks, to me, the Omega has more eye-appeal and is (movement aside) technically superior. The dial differs from the Rolex considerably, as the Omega has a textured wave dial that captures light magnificently whereas My Rolex has the Maxi-dial. Also unique; incorporated into the Omega casing is a helium-escape valve near the 10 o’clock position. This valve is designed to help deep sea divers (that need to decompress in diving bells for days at a time) expel accumulated helium from within the casing. Helium release is not likely to be needed for my pool diving.

History of Omega

The idea of the watch brand was initially conceived by two brothers in 1848. A small office was used for their manufacture but by 1889, they became the largest watch producers in Switzerland.

In 1894, a watch movement was created which was commended for its design and functionality; the brother’s banker suggested it should be called “the Omega”, the name that was adopted for the brand itself later in 1903.

In 1909 the brand made its debut in the sporting arena, with the Gordon Bennett ballooning contest using Omega as their official timekeeping equipment. Over the next century, many different sports events, including the Olympics relied on Omega for similar purposes.

Perhaps the defining point in Omega’s history was the development of the SpeedMaster in 1957, and then its later use by Neil Armstrong for the quest to the moon in 1969.

In 1993 a museum was opened for the company, and since then has continued to produce class leading watches at competitive prices.

History of the Seamaster

The first Seamaster was sold in 1948, the men’s version incorporated a small seconds counter at 6, whilst the ladies came with the standard dial layout.

link

The first Seamaster 300m was sold in 1957. They were designed to be very robust diver’s watches, and these models still fetch a premium price due to their heritage and beautiful design.

Then over the years, the design gradually changed to what we come to recognize as the SMP. The first was released in 1988. The second generation of this watch was released in 1992, the main change being the hand design. The picture below shows the first generation SMP 200, clearly influenced by the Rolex Submariner.

The 3rd generation underwent a substantial overhaul, and this is the version that became the iconic line of Seamaster watches, partly due to its appearance in Goldeneye. (NB – Brosnan used the quartz version, not the 2531.80)

Since then, Omega has been the brand that is associated with James Bond, even though Fleming’s original description suggested a Rolex Explorer was used.

The later releases of the SMP included the electric blue, and the 2254 black SMP in 1998, which is considered to be the ‘tool watch’ of the SMP line, whereas the 2531 is the iconic and more popular model among Bond fans.

In 1999, with the help of Calibre 2500, Omega made history by introducing the first mass-produced watch incorporating the co-axial escapement – invented by English watchmaker George Daniels Considered by many to be one of the more significant horological advances since the invention of the lever escapement, the co-axial escapement functions with virtually no lubrication, thereby eliminating one of the shortcomings of the traditional lever escapement. Through using radial friction instead of sliding friction at the impulse surfaces the co-axial escapement significantly reduces friction, theoretically resulting in longer service intervals and greater accuracy over time The co-axial movement was put in the latter batches of 2531 SMP’s, before re-releasing them as the 2280.80 model (red Seamaster)

The Planet Ocean is the new comer of the Seamaster series. Its design attempts to recreate the stunning lines of the first SMP300 released in 1957. Again, the link with Bond was reaffirmed with Daniel Craig wearing the 45mm PO on a rubber strap. A special edition was released which included a limited edition caseback, and orange 007 seconds hand.

Another version was released for the Quantum of Solace film, which incorporated a carbon effect dial, and an engraving on the crystal. For those who like the Ltd Ed pieces, it went down well, for the hardcore PO fans, it went down like a lead balloon.

Omega has always been a brand that I have had utmost respect for. They know what markets they are producing for, and they do it well.
My next encounter came by way of an SMP Chrono, which remains part of my collection.

About a two years ago, I treated myself to a 2531.80. I picked it up for a great price, but because it didn’t come with boxes and papers, it was more of a ‘testing the water purchase’ rather than a long term one. However, after owning that watch I knew the Seamaster range was worthwhile of all the hype surrounding it.

The Omega Planet Ocean

Vital Stats

Case Diameter – 45mm
Case Height – 15mm
Water Resistance – 2000ft
Power Reserve – 44 Hours (self winding co-axial)
Crystal – Convex AR coated Sapphire

Versions

The PO was originally released with black bezel with white numbers, and Orange bezel with orange numbers. This catered for those who wanted a classic looking diver, and for those who wanted something a little more outlandish. The Black bezel with Orange numbers was later released for those in between. I have never been a big fan of the latter combo, and prefer the two originals personally.

Box and Papers

The Planet Ocean comes with the full complement of outer and inner boxes, as well as the cards.

The outer box is made from cardboard, and is super sturdy, whilst the legendary red inner box is nicely finished in leather.

Of course as with any Omega, you get the warranty cards and operating manual too.

Overall, it’s a really nice little setup. When it’s not on your wrist, it looks really nice sitting in the box with the hang tag next to it, and makes a really nice display item on a shelf.

Front

The first thing to hit you about the front of the PO is just how nicely the anti-reflective compliments the dial. The PO has a beautifully textured dial, and the details are just a lot finer.

The readability of the dial is incredible in all conditions. The lume is monstrous, I have to put it in the box at night otherwise it would keep me awake! Additionally, the shape of the hands and lume marker gives the watch face great presence.

The Rolex Explorer II was originally designed for speleologists (cave dwellers) to help with time orientation. While under ground for long periods of time, it was reportedly common to loose the concept of day vs. night. With speleology in mind, Rolex designed the Explorer II with a 24-hour hand that could be read against the fixed bezel to distinguish between the AM vs. PM.

I picked up a solid, but well worn “S” series Explorer II on the bay earlier this month. I, being possessive, named my watch Dora, as in Dora the Explorer. Well I guess the previous owner was an explorer of sorts (or maybe it was Dora the Explorer’s monkey friend),
as when I received this watch from the seller, it was horribly scratched, dirty, and loaded with hair

As you can see by the following pictures from the ebay listing, they lacked fine detail, and were softened. Fine details, like the embedded pubic hair were not shown. Clearly Dora was violated in ways unmentionable.

Now, I by no means was surprised by Dora having heavy wear (she’s been around the block a few times), and I made the purchase confident I could semi-restore the bracelet and case. It was never my intent to get Dora refinished to new condition, as some wear really adds character (I pretty much left the bezel untouched).

My intent was however, to remove the light to moderate scratches, remove the previous owner’s embedded hair strands (eww – where did he wear Dora anyway?), and to restore the bracelet to a nice satin finish.

This thread is a step-by-step pictorial of how I refinished the case and bracelet. Yeah, I know its all been done before. I have seen threads showing how to do this in the past, but I did things a little different using what I had available.

Tools needed:
[*]Dremel
[*]Dremel polishing kit (like $13 at Walmart)

[*]One 3M green scratch pad
[*]Soap and water
[*]Ample lighting
[*]Oh yeah, and your wife’s toothbrush

Dora was received quite dirty, and with what appeared to be an older, crude polishing already done.
Prior to cleaning I removed the bracelet from the case. I then ensured the crown was well positioned, and thoroughly gave the watch a good soap and water cleaning, followed by an alcohol wipe down. Alcohol is not recommended and it can wear down the older rubber gaskets. I intend to replace these soon, and well frankly, I wanted to reduce the microbial flora count on this used watch. After cleaning I could see what was really a solid base

Using the red rouge polishing paste, apply a liberal amount to the bracelet itself.

Important Note: I don’t recommend applying the compound directly to the polisher pad, as I found out it has an affinity to cause corneal abrasions when you power up the Dremel. Doh! After a short episode of screaming like a little school girl, and rinsing out my eyes, I began to polish.

Using a back-and-forth pattern, I worked the polishing compound over all of the surfaces of the bracelet and case sides. Keep the polisher tip moving and moist with paste, so as not to burnish.

After about twenty minutes, I could see considerable improvement. Dora moaned with giddy anticipation. The fine to moderate scratches were all but gone, and a few deeper ones were barely noticeable.

When you think you are done, use your wife’s toothbrush with some soap and water to thoroughly clean the bracelet and case. I do not recommend using your own toothbrush because the task is too dirty.
(Honey, its time to double up on the tooth whitening stuff)

Rinse the heck out of the surfaces with warm water.
Dry the bracelet and case well (use a hair blower to get water out of the links).

Load up a dry polishing wheel on the Dremel.

Lightly begin to go over the case edges and all high polished sections of the bracelet. This buffs the SS to a high luster. When I was done, I could see a my own reflection in the bracelet clasp. I had to pause in awe. Not because of the high polish, but at my own natural beauty. Sorry, I digress.

When the polishing is done, you’re gonna be surprised at how bright the surfaces are. In fact, too bright and chingy. Fear not young squire, as the satin finishing will tone it down.

Place the green 3M scratch pad on a flat-folded surgical lap sponge (or a wash-cloth if your surgical supplier is away). As shown in the next photo, drag segments of the bracelet straight down across the green pad.

Note: If you have highly polished the center links and want them to stay ghetto blingy (like on a day-date), then tape those sections off with masking tape.

Do each section of the bracelet carefully, keeping the green pad flat on the washcloth. Make sure your finishing is straight as an arrow. I recommend using two shots of Grey Goose as a preliminary guide.

Look I F-d up:

A simple re-do with the green pad fixes it:

Pretty huh.

Dora the Explorer II is all ready for a night on the town. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. As you can see, refinishing Dora was pretty simple, and is something anyone can do. I mean you can refinish your own piece. Keep you hands off my Dora.

Here’s a couple more pictures of Dora on my nuts. Tell me what ya think…

This 1954 Omega Calendar model was purchased recently on Ebay for less than $210.

In the 50’s the original Omega would have come with a leather band; not the gold tone bracelet you see here.
The gold two tone bracelet is an aftermarket Omega 779 that, albeit incorrect for this model, it complements nicely.

Another deviation from stock is the crown itself. The finer knurled crown seems to be a popular replacement, however, the gold version of the “four leaf” crown – as shown on the stainless model below is correct.

Fortunately, used parts for this model can be found fairly easily on Ebay. New old stock (NOS) parts are obviously becoming scarce.

But with some diligence, parts may be had.

According to the official Omega vintage website, the watch comes with a cal. 355 automatic bumper movement. This movement is 17J and was listed as being recently serviced. For the few months that I have owned this watch it is keeping time to about -13 sec day. That’s pretty damn good for a 55 year old watch. The sweeping second hand is a little choppy. I am not sure, but the beat rate seems slower than a 21k bph. So, I’d guess 18k range.

Omega vintage watches have found a resurgence in buying from collectors and enthusiasts.A trip to Ebay lists over 40 vintage Seamaster models to choose from. A buyer needs to do some research to determine exactly what they are buying. With the increase of interest in vintage watches, some sellers are building “franken” watches. A franken watch may be a watch that is assembled using replica parts (ie. movement, dials, or casings). Franken watches typically will not retain their value, but may still be a good buy for someone looking to have a “beater” watch.

When searching for a vintage watch, remember to ask questions. If buying from Ebay or any other online auction site, check the listing for pictures of the movement that is listed with the watch. Unfortunately, many vintage watches have had genuine replacement movements that were pieced together from other watches. Like a classic car, a swapped engine from the original will erode the collector’s value. For instance, the watch I purchased came with a hesalite crystal. Before bidding, I asked the seller if the crystal was original. In reponse, the seller was able to confirm it was an aftermarket replacement. The Ebay listing included several pictures of the watch and movement, as well as the caseback.

For Omega watches, the case back is important in dating the watch. It includes the Model number of the watch, which I am glad is consistent with this vintage model. Some franken watches actually have had their casebacks switched with incorrect models. I recently saw a listing on the bay for a vintage Omega Constellation that had a  Seamaster logo caseback. Some watches can be found and purchased inexpensively for rare parts.  These parts may be just what is needed or restoring an ailing movement or case parts. Also, NOS bracelets and bands can be found to refresh your classic piece.

With a little effort  bargain buys can still be found. Here’s a link to an Ebay query with some good opportunities:

Good luck in your search!

Earlier this week, I procured a ladies DateJust for the wifey. Since she has tolerated my growing collection, I felt it was her turn to get a lil’ bling.

I know better than to surprise her with one of my choosing, so I got her approval on a few models. Her criteria for selection was mostly size related. She has tiny wrists, and did not want a man’s size, or larger ladies model. We looked at Tags, and we looked at FMs. We looked at Cartiers and Chanels, and a few others. She always seemed to come back to the Rollies tho. After reviewing the various choices she made her selection. I contacted one of the CONUS dealers and the deal was done. Two weeks later here is what arrived.

The dial of the DateJust is white MOP. I struggled to capture in a photograph the subtle shadow changes that a MOP dial creates. It is really “shimmery”.

The datewheel font seems more in line with older models.

The size of this DateJust is about 24.5 mm – about the size of a quarter. The genuine is 26mm from what I can find online.

The crown size seems close but not perfectly in line with the cyclops. This deviation is VERY difficult to see when in hand.

Looking at the tube, I do not see any gaskets for water-sealing. Without further dis assembly or pressure testing, I cannot be sure how water tight the case is. I’m guessing its a leaky hull.

The clasp and bracelet is the usual dainty jubilee rep version.

Opening up the caseback, it reveals a ETA 2671  25J hi beat… (although I’m a little skeptical its a ETA, probably a clone, like the one here)

The movement spacer is (I believe) rough brass… Check out the crooked screws (they do the job just fine).

For better water resistance, I have silicon lubed the tube and caseback gasket.

The wife is enjoying the bling today. She is hard at work doing the wash with our new replica washing machine:

In general this seems to be a nice beater. Time will tell if it holds up to my wife’s expectations, and physical abuse. The bling factor is not over-the-top, which is just what she wanted.

I find it subtly classy and it complements her. If your thinking about a ladies Datejust for your woman (or for your own scrawny 4 inch wrist) then this version is sure to please.